Charging waves like we wait for all year
You never see surfing on Christopher Parker’s SUPracer.com but he kicked off the New Year with a photo-feature story. One of the photos was of me from last winter. Yeah, I was out there all of this December too, grabbing the biggest swells I could find wherever I could find them all the way up until back surgery left me high and dry at Christmas. While I train and heal it’s fun to talk story with my friends and think back on some good times in early winter.
December 2013. The night before the big west swell, Kody Kerbox and I were stressing and trying to figure out where to go. I haven’t witnessed this big of a west swell before so I had no clue where to go out. I called around and talk to a bunch of people and found out that Kihei was probably going to be firing – so that made the decision.
Photos copyright Frank Forbes
Kody and I woke up early, jumped in the truck and headed straight over to the other side of the island. We checked a bunch of spots along the way and went all the way to the end of the road at La Perouse and decided that the best call was the boat ramp. It was a perfect left coming in that looked like a mini Pipeline.
So I jumped in the water with my 7’1″x 24″ Pro Starboard – and got some of the best waves ever. Got a couple good barrels and a lot of good turns in. It finally got super crowed and I had gotten all the waves I needed, so we decided to go get some lunch. Another fun day in Maui! Aloha,