Sunday, March 2 was a day to remember. When I woke up around 4 o’clock that Sunday morning I had no idea what a glassy giant swell Pe’ahi would deliver to the early birds.
Grabbing some food, I jumped in my truck and headed down to the beach with my dad’s boat. It was still pretty dark as I drove to the boat launch at Kahului Harbor. It’s about a 45 minute boat ride up to Jaws but on a great day like this one it seemed like hours. On the way up we saw plenty of whales which are easier to spot when the ocean is glassy. We could hear the swell almost before we saw it, as dawn was barely breaking to the east. The swell was already bombing so I knew it was going to be a good day.
Photo by Frank Forbes
We were the first boat up there. Just as we rolled up we saw a good size set and no one out. An opportunity like that doesn’t come along very often. I quickly grabbed my Starboard Gun Pro and headed out to the lineup. I caught about three rights that were good size before anyone got out there. Kai Lenny arrived soon after we did and it was just Kai and me for about 30 min.
Once everyone got out there, which was about 80 people, I went over to the left and caught 5 more good waves. The lefts were a lot of fun because I am goofy foot and that is front side for me which is more comfortable.
All of a sudden the winds came up so I thought that was going to be the end of it so I paddled over to where my dad, Keith, and my sister Ashley had our boat and started to put my stuff away. We sat there and watched Pe’ahi perform for awhile more. The winds made it very difficult and scary out there. Soon after, the rain started to pound down on us. After that squall passed the wind died and it started to get really good again.
So I had to go back out and this time I jumped on my 10’4 lay down gun. I paddled straight out to the lefts and sat right in the zone. During this session I only caught 4 waves but one of them was epic. I had a sick drop and bottom turned right into the pocket. I stood up tall and the lip went right over my head and got a nice pocket ride. All together it was a great day.
I wish I had more pictures and video but am grateful to Frank Forbes, Shuan Stodder and Pure Digital Maui for sharing what they captured. You can LIKE a FOLLOW all of them on Facebook (click links)
Some video fun. The first one is a collection of stills by frank Forbes and Shaun Stodder. The second video is from Pure Maui Digital posted on their Facebook page. You can subscribe to them on YouTube.